Hamburger Breakfast: A Dragon Boat Adventure

The past few weeks, many Kaohsiung Fulbrighters and I participated in the 端午節 festivities by forming our own 龍舟. We were competing in the foreigner division against the likes of full-of-giant-Germans 中山大學, the very European Wenzao University, and the International World Games team, to name a few.

Anyway, when I first heard about dragon boating back in the fall, and found out there was a drummer who kept the beat, I knew what I wanted to do. So as early as possible I "called" the role of 鼓手... after all, I have rhythm, and the boat wasn't really missing out by not having my rowing arms.

I can't speak for the rowers, but I had a fantastic time as drummer. The rowers were supposed to follow my beat, so I had to give them a steady and doable pace while also aiming to be competitive with the other boats. It was basically my job to bang a drum and scream. What could be more fun? Maybe the guy who got to sit on the front of the boat and grab the flag at the end, but then again, he almost fell into the not-so-sanitary Love River.

Our boat consisted of 20 rowers (half Fulbright, half Taiwanese friends), the drummer (me), a steerer/tiller (Chris, our Bureau of Education liaison), and a flag-grabber (Henry, a military worker at Ling Jhou English Village). We had a total of four practices that were about 45 minutes each before we raced, and as the practices were in the afternoon, we never got to practice with a full boat. So, we may have lost in the end, but I'm incredibly proud of our team. The first time we tried the full length of the course (500km), it took us over seven minutes. On our final race, we clocked in at 4:18. Not a technical victory, but a moral one. Plus, those Germans were huge.

Our team name was supposed to be something intimidating. We chose "Hamburger Breakfast." Why? Because Taiwanese people think that Americans eat hamburgers for every meal. So I frequently led the team in a motivational chant: What do we eat? HAMBURGERS When do we eat them? FOR BREAKFAST!

As I was actively drumming and screaming throughout practices and the competition, I couldn't take any pictures. But here are some pictures from Fulbrighter Shiela and Jo (from San Min English Village).

Warming up before practice:

An afternoon practice with a less-than-full boat:

Getting geared up for our first race, in uniform:

Rowing into place for our first race:

Maya got some great photos of our races here. Also check out her video:

Anyway, Hamburger Breakfast was certainly a positive experience. Drumming for the dragon boat was one of the most fun things I've done since coming to Taiwan, and I hope I get the opportunity to do it again someday.

I should include that our fantastic team t-shirts, courtesy of the design styles of Fulbrighter Gered, include our team name, all of our names, some great designs, and my suggested slogan of "Your Ass is Dragon." Ten points if you can name that literary reference :-)

Did you know there's a Hello Kitty Bakery and Restaurant?

Because there is. In Taipei. And I went there.

My Hello Kitty hamburger:

The Hello Kitty decor:
To quote Dani's friend Alex, "I feel like I just walked into an eight-year-old girl's bedroom."

Hello Kitty pastries:

Even a Hello Kitty Bathroom:

Oh, and Hello Kitty says "Happy Mother's Day!"

Hairspray: The Finished Product

Opening night was on Tuesday. A good time was had by all.


How Taiwan does "black"... a little awkward?:


An ensemble piece, "I can hear the bells," with the "plump" Tracy (she's wearing padding):

I worked with the guy who played Seaweed on the English in his lines. I was a little concerned and confused by his flat delivery when he practiced with me. Imagine my surprise when this is who he became on stage:

Us with the cast after their first show. I'm on the far left... don't confuse me for the girl who played Amber wearing the intensely blonde wig!

Brains...

As I biked to work on my usual route this morning, I was behind a slow-moving scooter for a few blocks (slow-moving enough that its pace matched my bike's). The scooter had a big box/cart attachment on the back. Fortunately (for me, anyway), there was a plastic cover over the contents of the cart. But hanging on either side were several, um, animal parts. I can't tell what animal they came from, but I recognized raw, dried muscle on bone, and brains. Just hangin' out on the scooter.

What's weird is, it took me a few minutes to notice it, and even longer to realize I should probably be (would normally be?) grossed out. Thanks to Taiwan's special pick-something-and-fry-it carts pervasive at night markets, I apparently have become immune to the sight of animal brains hanging off the side of a scooter on my morning commute.

Sorry, no pictures. Biking + photographing + Taiwan traffic = certain injury.

A night of culture?

Jonathan is still visiting, so I still don't have serious time to spend on blogging. But I thought I'd upload another video from walking Milo around the Cultural Center (right next to my apartment) tonight. Just a typical Saturday night at 文化中心... crafts on sale, dancing, aerobics, kids on light-up rollerskates... the usual.

Sorry for the poor quality, but it's the best I could do with my little point-and-shoot camera with no natural light.

Your average Tuesday?

I was in the middle of an entry on my trip to Lotus Lake with Lauren when the sound of several fireworks in loud succession coming from very close by interrupted my train of thought. I was forced to investigate.

Apparently, the temple across the street from my apartment building is having some sort of temple parade right now. I saw some temple parades in Tainan, but they were all around 10am on a Saturday (or was it Sunday?) morning. A very logical time. Right now, at 10:30pm on a Tuesday, I would not expect this amount of liveliness (read: loudness). But alas... fireworks, cymbals, Asian horns, and deities shrouded in neon lights are filling the street in front of my apartment and pouring into my very large window. The dog is going crazy, racing from my bedroom door to my lap and back again, trying to find a way to escape the noise and/or find its source.

I took this video from the porch. Not a great view, but maybe it will give you an idea of what is going on (and has been going on for at least 30 minutes) and what will prevent me from falling asleep until it has finished. I'm going to go out on a limb and say this wouldn't happen back home... at least, not on a Tuesday night at 10:30.



Also, in my family, this is not just an average Tuesday. It is my 奶奶's birthday today. Happy birthday, Nan!

Christmas comes to Fu Xing

I could either write one really long update about the holiday season in Taiwan, or I can break it up into hopefully digestible bites. So, here's the holiday update on how Christmas came and went at Fu Xing Primary School. We spent about two weeks of class doing holiday-related activities... I could write about it, or I could show pictures. I think I know what all my blog-readers prefer.

First, I taught them about the holiday season in the US (I even tried to talk about Chanukah before Susan told me it was too hard to understand...). Then they drew/colored pictures to decorate the classroom and listened to Christmas music. No pictures of that.

Second, they wrote letters to Santa. Some choice entries:

(As you can see, some didn't quite grasp the concept of a form letter.)

Third, my fifth graders put on a Christmas recital in their music class. It involved "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" and "Santa Claus is coming to Town," in English!

Here they are, performing "Jingle Bells," or 叮叮當, on the recorder. Did you know that recorders come in soprano, alto, tenor, and bass varieties?

A performance of "We Wish you a Merry Christmas:"

Also, we watched the old cartoon version of "How the Grinch Stole Christmas" in all my classes... 3rd, 4th, and 5th graders alike found it hilarious, captivating, and comprehensible-- even without subtitles. I'm sad that I no longer have the ability to laugh at cartoons just for being funny-looking. Anyway, the movie got across the message that I thought many of them needed to hear: Christmas is not defined by presents or decorations or fancy food.

A picture of the kids enjoying the Grinch (I'd never seen them pay this much attention all semester):

My grinch lesson board:

For those classes who had time, I wanted to tell my favorite Christmas story, "'Twas the Night Before Christmas." The language is a little steep, though, even for native English speakers of the same age, so, with the help of my fantastic co-teacher Susan, I translated it into a Chinese poem with (approximately...) the same meter and rhyme scheme. Then the students drew/wrote their reactions:

Some sample "reflections" on the poem:
Stanley, from class 4-5:

I like this poem, but is very long. X'mas's night is quiet so is good. reindeer it's fling very high. He is very fat. He has elf and toys, he want give many children. He can go any ( ), Many children has a stocking. children want a gift any years. They are happy in this day. The world is love X'mas. so I like x'mas, too.

Heidi, from class 5-3:

I like this poem, this poem is old, it is 200 years old, I like their's Santa. hope Santa can give me a computer, but Santa is not here, this poem is long, the picture is beautiful, the Santa is fat, and teh Santa is nice, hope can listen again. Merry Christmas.

If anyone is interested in my (illustrated!) Powerpoint of "Twas the Night before Christmas" with Chinese and English, let me know.

And finally, since I did have to work all day on Christmas, I figured the only way to get through it was to bring it. So, of course, I brought it. And "it" was a reindeer sweater and antlers.

So, a belated Merry Christmas to all of you, from Fu Xing Primary School!

Culturally Confounded in Taiwan: Chapter 3

This one sort of goes along the lines of getting free stuff. But it doesn't.

I'm sitting in the classroom right now during lunch break. All the students are in their homerooms, either eating or settling in for an afternoon nap. A small girl just came in and said to me (in Chinese), "Today is my birthday. Here is juice for you." I replied with a confused "Happy birthday" in English and Chinese as she walked out the door.

So now I'm sitting here with papaya juice on my desk that some child gave me for her birthday. I feel a little bad. First I was disappointed to have my birthday on a Saturday because it meant no adorable 4th grade chorus of "Happy Birthday" in class, but now that I realize I might have had to provide treats for everyone on my birthday, maybe it was for the better.

This is not the first time this has happened, either. I've also gotten candy and mooncakes from students on their birthdays. I vaguely remember parents baking brownies or cupcakes or something for kids to bring in on their birthdays back in elementary school, but buying papaya juice for the whole faculty? This one's new to me.

Culturally Confounded in Taiwan, Chapter Two

The continuing saga of Taiwanese confusion.

Chapter 2: Free Stuff
Now, don't get me wrong, I love free stuff. Who doesn't? Well, maybe my mom, when my dad brings it home from business trips and/or garage sales. But for the most part, free stuff is fun. And in Taiwan, it seems to come in inexplicable times and ways.

In our first weeks here, my roommates Dan and Dani decided to go to the nearby computer store and buy some electronic dictionaries. These weren't cheap (about $200 USD each), but certainly on the cheaper end of the kind of merchandise sold in the store (laptops, LCD TV's... think Circuit City without the movies and music). When they finally made their purchase, the salesman threw in two trinkety "UFO Alarm Clocks." Because... you can't use your Chinese dictionary without having blinking lights to wake you up in the morning.

Last weekend, I went to a local cosmetic-y store (think CVS without the pharmacy) to buy sunscreen and maybe one or two unnecessary impulse buys. The total was not more than $15 US, but still, the woman grabbed a loofah from out of nowhere and said "送給你." Why did I get a loofah? I don't know. Why did the woman before me in line, who spent way more than I did, not get a loofah? I don't know.

And finally, convenience stores. Particularly during the first month, I seemed to get random discounts left and right at the Family Mart downstairs (initially deemed the "blonde discount"). And when I didn't get discounts, I'd get tiny stickers with cartoon characters on them that are supposed to go... somewhere. Think of it as something like McDonald's Monopoly, except you don't have a Monopoly board and you (probably) don't win a million dollars if you fill it up. You only get a million dollars from your receipt. Duh.

This whole experience of randomly and inexplicably getting free stuff is kind of like when you get ExtraBucks and coupons with your ExtraCare card at CVS. It's great when you get $4 off your next purchase, and bizarre when you get 50% off something you've never heard of... and who doesn't love that feeling of not knowing what's coming at the end of every purchase?

PS: I realize this is coming right after the first "chapter." I actually wrote that last night and forgot to post it. Oops.

Culturally Confounded in Taiwan, Chapter One

Over my past nearly-two-months in Taiwan, I've come across a few baffling "what the..." revelations about Taiwanese culture. These things would happen to me or around me that were totally unlike what I'm used to at home, but I would have no idea why. These aren't those "people eat snake meat" or "take your shoes off when inside" type things that you either notice quickly or people take you aside to tell you. No, these things are much more subtle than that, and you can go on living with it for two months before you realize what exactly is going on.

Chapter 1: Receipts
Business cards are a very popular thing in Asia right now. You meet someone somewhere and talk to them for more than three minutes, and you will walk away one business card richer. The way that you exchange business cards is rather formal; it is customary and polite to accept business cards with both hands while slightly bowing (at least nodding your head). This is one of those things that's pretty easy to notice, and I know this was explained to me before I went to Asia for the first time.

Now, Katie, why did you make the heading "Receipts" if you were just going to talk about business cards? Well, every time you buy anything-- from a can of Coke at the 7-11 to furnishings for your whole apartment at IKEA-- the cashier will formally hand you your receipt. They don't ask if you want one, and act somewhat surprised if you don't take it. I always assumed this was just an extension of the business card behavior... someone hands you a piece of paper, however trivial, and you politely accept it and move on with your day.

But nay! Apparently, at the top of every receipt, there is a 10-digit numerical code. These codes are all lottery numbers of sorts. A certain government website updates with new numbers every month, and you can win a prize if you have the winning number. But you have to be able to produce the whole receipt. Which means keeping all of your receipts for at least a month. This behavior is to encourage people to want receipts, thus encouraging companies to keep track honestly of their transactions. If you ask me, though, save me the clutter and save the world the paper, I'm not winning the lottery any time soon.

Now as proof, even 麥當勞 is serious about its receipts. (As a side note, I only go there for the 冰旋風. And maybe sometimes fries.)

The latest craze...

I went to a department store with my host family last Sunday. Department stores are basically 10+ story buildings with anything you could need, including a grocery store, bookstore, movie theater, and any kind of boutique or kiosk you would want. Anyway, this department store also had an arcade. A crowd was gathered around this one machine, and my host brother Kevin was particularly excited. It was like Dance Dance Revolution, but... well... revolutionized.

A video is necessary. My favorite part is not the guy standing and playing the actual game, but the many others standing nearby "rehearsing" for their turn.



Sorry for the brevity and poor quality. It was about as close and as long as I dared stand near the flailing-armed men (yes, men). Needless to say, when host mom Linda asked if I wanted to give it a try, I politely declined.

In case you're in the area...

Alternate title: Cultural Imperialism, ahoy!


Green dot near bottom/left/center = our apartment.

Addendum: see this page for information about 7-11 in Taiwan. It is basically the most ubiquitous chain around, with at least 4 within a 5-minute walk from our apartment. Not only can you buy snacks there, but you can also pay your bills, fax/print documents or pictures, and buy tickets to local events and attractions.

Katie 老師 and the mooncakes

So, I'm writing this at the end of my first two days of classes, my first two days being called "Katie 老師." Because I'm not yet familiar with the students' ability levels, how a class here should run, etc., Susan ran the class and then had time for 外國老師 introduction and open questions. For some classes this lasted a few minutes, but in most of the classes this took almost the full 40-minute period. As a 22-year-old, it's hard to believe how distanced I am from the major interests and preoccupations of elementary school kids. For example, I haven't really thought about my favorite colors, animals, sports, movies, moviestars, or foods in quite a while. Between that and cultural differences, I had to make up a good number of answers on the spot that were at least mildly true, and also understandable to students in their first, second, or third year of a rather infrequent, un-rigorous English program.

A lot of the questions were basic, but many were really strange, and I can't imagine an American elementary school student asking them. In both cases though, I had fun, and the kids had fun, and I hope they learned something. I should note-- Susan translated for them. If they knew how to ask all of these questions and understand the answers in English, I don't think they'd need me.

So, here are some fun examples from my two days of questioning...

First, what you'd expect from a kid.

• What is your favorite color? (green and orange)
  
• What do you like to eat? (牛肉麵 and pizza)
  
• What sport do you like best? (baseball)
  
• Do you have any brothers or sisters? (two older brothers)
  
• What's your favorite animal? Why? (I like fish because they are pretty and quiet)
  

Second, what a lot of people ask me here.

• Why did you want to come to Taiwan? (it is pretty, the people are friendly, I want to learn Chinese)
  
• What did you study in college? (linguistics)
  
• How do you like Taiwan? (I like it a lot)
  
• What do you want to do when you go home? (I don't know, maybe become 美國的總統)
  

Third... Are you trying to ask me out?

• What's your sign? (Scorpio for zodiac, Ox for Chinese calendar)
  
• Do you have a boyfriend? (yes, he is in America) ...and lots of follow-up
• Why aren't you married? (I am too young)
  
• Do you have children? (I am too young)
• Why are you so pretty? (thank you)... not throwing that in to boost my ego... they basically think anyone western-looking is beautiful/handsome.
  

Fourth... um, what?

• Why is your hair yellow? / Why are your eyes blue? (I was born that way, everybody looks different in America)
  
• What is your blood type? (O, I think)
  
• Does America have more trash than Taiwan? (Some places have trash, some don't)
  
• Do you come from a broken home? (My parents live together in Philadelphia, where the Phillies play!)
  

So, yeah. That was basically my first two days of class, meeting all of the students and having a Q+A with Katie 老師.

The fourth grade class was particularly endearing. One of the girls asked during the Q+A, "Does Katie like to eat 月餅?" Not really knowing what they were, I said yes. Later, during my last class of the day, a troop of 4th graders lined up outside and presented me one by one with mooncakes that they had made... somehow... in the hour since I'd seen them. So adorable.

Here is a picture of the ten mooncakes they gave me yesterday:

And a close-up of one:

Now, because the Moon Festival is coming up this weekend, everyone is exchanging mooncakes like there's no tomorrow. As far as I can tell, the Moon Festival is something like a Taiwanese Thanksgiving, in that you gather with family and eat a lot. My roommates and I have all accrued a massive amount of mooncakes. I'm happy to say that the little handmade mooncakes from my students are far superior to the expensive packaged ones given from school faculty... though maybe I'm biased.

To conclude, here is a picture of all the mooncakes in our apartment so far (most are still in fancy boxes). And just think... the Moon Festival isn't even until Sunday...

Addendum: I guess I should tell you what's in a mooncake. So far, we've had taro, red bean, egg yolk, some meat-flavored thing, and a good number of unidentifiable substances. We've heard that some have things like coffee, fruit, or chocolate inside. I guess we have until Sunday to find out for sure.